Roll 60. Lucky in love.

Suddenly I got very good results out of a roll of expired Lucky SHD100 film. I wish I knew exactly what caused the film to scan so beautifully.

Encounter with a favourite tree. Lucky SHD100 in Maco Ecoprint 1+50 for 20 min at 20C.

Encounter with a favourite tree. Lucky SHD100 in Maco Ecoprint 1+50 for 20 min at 20C.

I had put an orange filter on the 28mm lens, that affects the picture naturally. But I’ve used that in the past as well, and have not had results so good as these before.

Mid stride. Lucky SHD100 in Maco Ecoprint 1+50 for 20 min at 20C.

Mid stride. Lucky SHD100 in Maco Ecoprint 1+50 for 20 min at 20C.

According to Katen lensflare is the highest form of photography. I think this is the first time I’ve managed to catch one with my analogue equipment.

Hexagon. Lucky SHD100 in Maco Ecoprint 1+50 for 20 min at 20C.

Hexagon. Lucky SHD100 in Maco Ecoprint 1+50 for 20 min at 20C.

Self portrait. Lucky SHD100 in Maco Ecoprint 1+50 for 20 min at 20C.

Self portrait. Lucky SHD100 in Maco Ecoprint 1+50 for 20 min at 20C.

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This entry was posted by Wilhelm.

14 thoughts on “Roll 60. Lucky in love.

  1. I feel like you underxpose most of your shots. Snow shoots out the lightmeter, so you need to overexpose around +2EV. Also, negatives love being overexposed. The rule is “shoot for the shadows, develop for the highlights”. Outside, the yellow filter is always a good thing. Like, 90% of the time, as film is oversensitive to blue.
    Also, your development method will affect the result. Stand development, for instance, extends the grey palette.

    I’d say that your good shots here are because you correctly overexposed to have white snow. 🙂

  2. Yes, I have been underexposing. I wanted to avoid overexposure, because it didn’t work very well with digital. But now I have have had some pretty dense negatives come out just fine when scanned, so I think I’ll err on the over-exposure side of things from now on.

  3. Just recently started using the maco bw developer (ecoprint/stop/fix). Works fine, but what I can’t find any information on is whether the diluted solution can be stored and/or reused… Any help would be appreciated!

    • I wouldn’t reuse the developer. But it works in lower dilutions than they’ve printed on the bottle. I’ve used it at 1+50 and 1+100. Check the comments on some images on the blog to get the development times I’ve been using. I’ve followed the principle of doubling the time every time I double the dilution.

      I don’t know about the stop bath. I’ve been skipping it for the last 50 rolls or so, instead I rinse the film under running water for a couple of minutes.

      The fixer should be reused. I have a 1+5 dilution in a 1 litre bottle and I’ve used it for 20-30 rolls before replacing it. You can check if it’s still good by soaking the bit of the film leader that you cut off before spooling for a couple of minutes and seeing if it clears. If you use the same kind of film all the time you could time the time it takes for the film to clear, when the time as doubled from the first roll you developed it is time to replace it.

      Good luck!

      • Thanks Wilhelm! Very usefull information! One last question: do you prepare your developer dilution right before using? Or do you make a batch and store it, using it bit by bit?

      • No, make developer only as you need it, it goes bad with time. I usually start a developing run by putting a small drop of detergent into the loaded development tank and filling it with water. Then I leave the film to soak while get the water to the right temperature and mix the developer.

        I don’t control the temperature once I’ve started, so even if I start at 20C I think it rises a degree or two when I develop in higher dilutions. Since I let it sit on the counter.

        Remember to agitate, that is shake or turn upside down and back, when you develop. I didn’t do that enough in the beginning and sometimes I got bromide streaking as result (stripes that start in the sprocket holes). Agitation affects the grain size and contrast of the negative, so you should find your own preferred method. But if you do the 1+50 or 1+100 dilutions you could start with one minute of constantly turning the tank upside right after you have poured the developer inside, and then turning it once every five minutes until you’re done. For higher concentration development, turn it every minute.

        I don’t know if that method is the best for the Maco Ecoprint developer, but it’s what I use right now, and I like the results.

  4. Ok, good to know! I made a liter of each solution last saturday, so I might want to pour that developer away and keep the stop and fix for a couple of more rolls. I just kept to the instructions on the bottle and things went fine, considering it was my first BW development. You can check here and let me know if you see any obvious defects (besides the huge scratch running the entire length of the film):
    http://www.lomography.com/homes/sandravo/albums/1954903-lubitel-running-35mm-bw
    Thanks Wilhelm! Nice to finally find the information I needed!

    • Looks good. I usually clean up the pictures a bit in PS or Gimp before I post them, but unedited they usually look pretty much like yours. I think I’ll try some Fomapan film, I haven’t used it yet.

      How do you scan with the sprocket holes? I’ve done some scanning with the negatives just pressed between two sheets of glass and then put in the flatbed scanner. But I’ve felt those scans were a bit low on contrast.

      • For these I used the 120 holder that came with the scanner, holding both short ends and a flimsy strip of one of the long sides. The other long side was kind of hanging down a bit, but it was ok. Pretty soon I will by the 120 digitaliza holder from lomography, which works with magnets that should give enough pressure to hold the film off the glass just by clamping the short ends. http://shop.lomography.com/be/digitaliza-120-scanning-mask Don’t buy the 35mm digitaliza if you want sprockets!

        I am running some fomapan 120 in my Lubitel, and now that I have your tips and info I am looking forward to developing and seeing what gives!

      • Oh, nice, I didn’t know you could get that good results scanning 135 in 120 holders, I should give it a try.

        I’ve shot some 135 in a medium format folder camera, that gave insanely wide pictures. But the focal length wasn’t really suitable for the pictures I wanted. I’ve been considering getting a Holga Pan 135 or a Sprocket Rocket, but I haven’t been able to figure out which of them is the best.

        I’m not very fond of ‘the Lomo look’, so good glass would be nice, but a nice panoramic camera is quite expensive. 😦

      • If you don’t like the lomo-look… Stay away from both the sprocket rocket and the holga pan 135! I had a sprocket rocket for a week, shot 2 rolls and sold it! But then again I also sold a Diana F+ and a La Sardina after shooting just 1 roll in each. Guess I only like cameras with adjustable apperture and shutter speed, not the all fixed plastic thing. The only panoramic lomo camera I would consider buying is the spinner! Glass lens panoramas are expensive, but maybe you could find a second hand Horizon camera?

  5. I’ve shot some with old box cameras with fixed aperture, focus and aperture. One can work within the limitations. But not having focus control hurts.

    I think I’ll end up buying a fish eye or other very short lens for a medium format camera, and then crop down to a wide panorama. That would give me good control over the results. But it will be a bit more expensive than a Holga, or even the Horizont cameras.

    Did the Sprocket Rocket have a glass lens?

    • Nope, plastic lens. Don’t get me wrong, I do love my grandma’s old box camera, got some great results with that! But somehow the plastic toy camera’s don’t appeal to me. I prefer vintage cameras with glass lenses and if possible, adjustable aperture and shutter time. TLRs are good for focussing…

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